Report

Bon appétit Ishikawa!

20 Items Certified as “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami”: Launch of a Unified Brand for Ishikawa’s Exceptional Ingredients Nationwide.

A Lineup of Gourmet Ingredients Known Only to Those in the Know.

The Noto Peninsula is blessed with rich Satoyama and Satoumi environments, the sacred Mt. Hakusan, which nurtures clear spring water from its dense primeval forests, and the alluvial fan of the Tedori River, forming a fertile granary region. Stretching about 200 kilometers from north to south, Ishikawa Prefecture boasts a truly diverse landscape.

Agricultural products and seafood from the prefecture are not produced in large quantities and thus have limited distribution outside the prefecture, leading to lesser national recognition. In recent years, however, many of these agricultural, forestry and fishery products have been praised by top chefs for their exceptional quality. Their names and unique flavors have become known to the general public.

In August 2022, Ishikawa Prefecture announced the certification of its exceptional agricultural, forestry, and fishery products as “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” (The Ultimate Essence of Hyakumangoku), uniting them under a single brand. The first installment, selected by an expert committee composed of branding specialists and representatives from production and distribution, includes 20 items such as Ruby Roman grapes, Noto beef, and Kano-gani crab (male snow crab).

[ Certification Criteria ]
“Differentiation” such as superior shape and function over standard varieties
Comprehensive “production system,” including established quality management systems
High “marketability,” as evidenced by high initial auction prices or prices equal to or better than top brands
Sufficient “production volume,” with prospects for maintaining or increasing production levels

The first installment of 20 items consists entirely of exceptional products that impress top chefs and gourmets.

“Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” Certified Items
Ruby Roman grapes
Noto beef
Hyakumangoku
Hyakumangoku-no-Shiro
Noto Japanese egg cockle
Kaga-shizuku
Genboku shiitake mushroom (Noto Temari)
Airy flora
Noto-dainagon adzuki beans
Korogaki (dried persimmon)
Takamatsu Monpei persimmons
Sweet potato (Gorojima Kintoki)
Kaga futo-kyuri cucumber
Kaga-renkon lotus root
Maruimo (Japanese yam)
Gensuke-daikon (Daikon radish)
Abalone
Horned turban shell
Kano-gani crab (male snow crab)
Kobako-gani crab (female snow crab)

*Click here for more information on the ingredients of “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami.”

Tatsuro Ume, chef-owner of “respiración.”
Yuji Yoneda, chef-owner, and sommelier of “SHÓKUDŌ YArn.”
Takuya Kataori, owner of “Kataori.”

A Close Look at the Origins of Exceptional Ingredients.

At ONESTORY, we focused on a variety of ingredients from Ishikawa Prefecture and conducted extensive interviews. Together with top chefs, patissiers and sommeliers who are at the forefront of the culinary world, we have sometimes visited producers to learn the secrets and challenges of daily production. By experiencing the sites firsthand and listening to the voices of the producers, we aim to understand the allure of these exceptional ingredients. We aim to enhance their potential through improved use, culinary innovation, and creative ideas. There is a deep sense of gratitude and respect for these extraordinary ingredients.

This time, some of the ingredients certified as “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” were featured in ONESTORY and received a great response.

“respiración,” the Spanish restaurant which has become a shining star at the forefront of local gastronomy in Kanazawa. It is co-owned by Chef Tatsuro Ume, and we joined him on a field trip to the floating aquaculture rafts in Nanao Bay to explore the Noto Cockle. By experiencing firsthand the abundance of Satoyama and Satoumi, which grow the large, thick cockles that are twice the size of typical cockles, and witnessing the dedication of the fishermen who meticulously care for the delicate cockles despite environmental changes, we gained insight into the factors behind their extraordinary taste.

At “Noto Ranch,” which stretches across the highlands of Noto Town, we explored the secrets behind the overwhelming deliciousness of Noto beef by observing the raising of these black-haired Wagyu cattle. In addition, at the innovative restaurant “SHÓKUDŌ YArn” in Komatsu City, chef and sommelier Yuji Yoneda prepared dishes using Noto beef. The two dishes, “Braised Beef Tendon” and “Beef Tenderloin Cutlet with Egg,” completely defied the expectations of their familiar names with innovative recipes and a new sense of deliciousness, leaving the entire team deeply impressed.

Takuya Kataori visited the production site of Noto’s branded log-grown shiitake mushroom, “Noto 115,” specifically the premium variety “Nototemari.” He is the master of the Japanese restaurant “Kataori” in Kanazawa, which is now recognized as one of Japan’s leading restaurants for Japanese cuisine. In search of the best ingredients, the restaurant’s staff tirelessly travel with Kataori from early in the morning to various fishing ports throughout the prefecture, drawing natural water and venturing into the mountains to gather wild herbs. It was impressive to see Kataori, even an expert in his field, visibly excited as he helped harvest the extremely rare Nototemari-grade giant shiitake mushroom, exclaiming with goosebumps at the sight of them growing on logs.

World-renowned patissier Hironobu Tsujiguchi, originally from Nanao City in Ishikawa Prefecture, visited a local vineyard. It was the harvest season for “Ruby Roman,” a remarkable grape developed over many years in Ishikawa Prefecture. Mr. Tsujiguchi has a special connection to this fruit, especially after purchasing a bunch at the first auction in 2011 for a then-record price of 500,000 yen. He shared it with middle school students affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake. That year, inspired by his visit to the vineyard, Mr. Tsujiguchi created a new Ruby Roman grape dessert for his shop. What kind of sweet creation did these special grapes become?

The new sake rice variety “Hyakumangoku-no-Shiro,” developed in Ishikawa Prefecture, has been used in full-scale brewing since 2020. It is a Ginjo-grade sake rice that has long been desired in Ishikawa, one of Japan’s leading sake regions. At that time, 21 brands brewed with Hyakumangoku no Shiro were collected for tasting by Motohiro Okoshi, one of Japan’s top sommeliers, who conducted a comprehensive analysis of each. Particularly intrigued by “Tedorigawa,” we visited its maker, the Yoshida Shuzoten in Hakusan City. We also explored the history of this new sake by visiting the research institute that developed the rice variety and the farmers who took on the challenge of growing this new rice.

In every interview, the producers’ deep affection for their crops and their strong determination to create the best products was palpable. It was an immense privilege for us as a media to cover these premium ingredients alongside the key figures of the culinary world.

A dish of Noto Cockle by Tatsuro Ume of “respiración.”
Noto beef’s “Beef Tenderloin Cutlet with Egg,” occasionally featured in the course menu at “SHÓKUDŌ YArn.”
At “Kataori,” Noto Temari was simply grilled with a glaze of soy sauce and dashi.
Hironobu Tsujiguchi of “Mont St. Clair” inspecting a Ruby Roman grape vineyard.
This dessert, crafted with Ruby Roman grapes by Hironobu Tsujiguchi and available for a limited time, is aptly named “Ruby Roman.”
Motohiro Okoshi meticulously tasted all sake brands made with Hyakumangoku-no-Shiro.

The Bell Logo is a Mark of Premium Quality.

The logo for “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” resembles a fruit hanging from a branch and is reminiscent of the kanji character for “hyaku (百).” It reflects the wish for the fruit to ripen abundantly, like a bell, and to continue thriving into the future.

Promotion of the 20 certified items will be increased, potentially increasing their visibility and accessibility outside the prefecture in the future. Some items may be expensive, but most are within reach with a small splurge. They offer a superior culinary experience that can be enjoyed closer to home.

For those who believe that the best ingredients are best enjoyed when prepared by professional chefs, there’s good news. In the future, more and more restaurants in Ishikawa Prefecture and beyond will be offering dishes made with “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” ingredients. If you see your desired ingredient on the menu, be sure to try it.

The lineup of “Hyakumangoku no Kiwami” is expected to expand in the future. Ishikawa’s exquisite ingredients are likely to shine even brighter.

Photographs: SHINJO ARAI, DAICHI MIYAZAKI
Text: KOH WATANABE
(supported by Ishikawa Prefecture, Ishikawa New Agriculture Total Support Organization)